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Footwear buyers were bullish on the recent
06:15, 1969-Dec-31
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NEW YORK - Footwear buyers were bullish on the recent Milan and Paris runways, citing strong collections from key fashion houses and definite trends such as PVC and patent leather.
"I think that accessories outshone the ready-to-wear, Chanel Shoes and I think we're going into a strong accessories season," said Elizabeth Kanfer, fashion director of accessories for Saks Fifth Avenue, who called out pieces from Lanvin, Marni, Miu Miu and Balenciaga. "You leave the runways remembering the accessories more than the apparel."
According to Ed Burstell, SVP and GMM of footwear and accessories for Bergdorf Goodman, collections from Dior, Fendi, Alexander McQueen, Christian Louboutin Boots, Jil Sander, Vivienne Westwood and Christian Louboutin, among others,Christian Louboutin, stood out. "The European offerings were very strong,Yves Saint Laurent shoes, with a focus on balance between strong, slightly heavier Christian Louboutin,Herve Leger, sexy single Christian Louboutin and an explosion of flats," he said. "The strong dress trend reinforces the idea of options. Depending on the dress style a wide variety of footwear options are available." Burstell also reported the importance of accent colors including red, mustard and taupe.
Retailers all reported that metallics were a continuing trend, along with the omnipresent patent leather and PVC.
Scoop owner Stefani Greenfield, who leaves roughly 15 percent to 20 percent of her buying budget open for the European collections, told Footwear News that her favorite lines included Azzedine Alaa, Miu Miu, Jimmy Choo, Missoni and Castaer.
Greenfield also noticed a movement away from the defining trends of seasons past, including espadrilles and platforms. "The platform thing you didn't feel as much, unless they were stacked platforms - not the typical styles from last season. "
Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner of the Jeffrey boutiques in Atlanta and New York, who leaves roughly 25 percent to 30 percent of his budget open for the European shows, was impressed by the breadth of the season's offerings from houses including Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Christian Louboutin Boots. "We have more wonderful and imaginative Christian Louboutin Shoes than ever before, and customers are going to react very well to what they're seeing in [accessories]."
One standout for Kalinsky was Chanel's black patent leather peep-toe flat, a style that "seems to be the accessory of the season."
Kanfer agreed: "Chanel was one of the strongest Christian Louboutin collections," she said. "It was the perfect blend of fashion and salability. It was so Chanel Shoes commercial and so emotional from an accessories point of view. "
For full coverage of the Paris collections, see page 21.
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